Bearnaise-mission accomplished

On the historic date 11.11.11 MK turned . . . 7, which on the date was celebrated throughout her extended family – and will be celebrated on several days to come. On friday we – T, K, M, MK and Fine – went to a local (Helsingør) Italian family restaurant, Ciao Ciao. This is a place we often return to as the kids love it and other options are few in this area.
M and MK had bruschetta for starters, Fine, T and K Antipasti Misti. The bruschetta for MK was classic tomato and mozzarella, M got the extended version which also included one with cured ham and cheese and one with tuna and capers. The plate of antipasti had melon and prosciutto, vitello tonnato, carpaccio, marinated bell pepper with cheese and a giant shrimp. All was made traditionally and was very tasty. To drink a chardonnay from Casa Girelli. For main course M and MK had Rigatone all Tartufo with sliced beef and the rest of us had Scallopine al Tartufo – Lots of cream and truffles. The Rigatone tasted as though some Ricotta had been added to the cream for texture. It was very rich and good. With the main course the waiter persuaded us to try a 2004 Brunello from Pinino, whomever that is.
Finally two times pistachio ice cream and three extended dessert plates; chocolate mousse, tiramisu and ice cream.
Ciao Ciao is a hot favorite with the kids and despite the heavy use of cream in their pasta dishes we also kind-of-like it. The staff in particular is splendid and as such it feels authentic.
On Saturday evening the family comes to celebrate. MK has chosen the menu, well almost. In her early years MK's favorite dish was Spaghetti alle Vongole and T hopes it still is, even though he suspects that given the choice MK would go for Pasta Pesto. For the secondo MK wants Bearnaise. And since we have neglected the challenge for too long this is a welcome opportunity to make another attempt.
The vongole is by now familiar, but nevertheless we succeed in cooking the pasta in too small a pot and we have to throw away some of it as it sticks together. Let that be a lesson about cooking pasta, but we also have to concede that pots for 14 people is not part of our stock. Despite this mishap everything is eaten and the sauce is scraped off by our guests.

Coming up next is the Boeuf Bearnaise. The roast has been out at room temperature for a couple of hours and placed in a dish with some salt and oil and a few rosemary stalks on top. In this way it is not cold when put it into the oven and also the gas that is used for keeping the meat fresh in the plastic wrapping tend to need to vaporize. It is put in a hot oven (210°) for 10 min, then turn down to heat to 180°. Cooking time for a 2 kg roast is about 45 min for medium rare.
The potatoes is a K-speciality and doesn't take a lot of work. Leave the peal on, half or quarter the potatoes to friendly sizes. Boil in salted water with lots of unshredded garlic cloves and rosemary for 10-15 minutes. Drain and put in a dish in one layer. Add a generous splash of olive oil and bake in the oven until lightly brown. When finished sprinkle with flakes of salt.

When all this out of the way we turn our attention to the bearnaise. Actually we have had to prepare the butter and vinegar reduction in advance.
For 4-6
First melt 250 gr butter at very low temperature so the fat and whey is separated. Set aside.
Next vinegar reduction. Stalks of tarragon and one shallot, chopped, in a pot with half white wine vinegar and white wine (app. 1 dl all-in-all) and crushed pepper. Reduce to a couple of spoonfuls. Set aside.
Now place the reduction-pot in a larger pot for a bain-marie. Whip in the egg yolks (4 yolks) until foamy and thickening. Now s-l-o-w-l-y add the butter while whipping. Finally add chopped tarragon and chervil.

It turned out beautifully. But just to make sure that it was not a one-time-happy-go-lucky we decided to repeat the dinner on tuesday – and it turned out even better – if possible. Now on to the low-fat dishes....

We like grenache for this kind of dish and so we had Clos de l'Oratoire 2008 Chateauneuf du Pape on the evening of MK's birthday and a 2009 Ogier Chateauneuf du Pape on Tuesday. It is a good match (8,5/10). T preferred the former.